Saturday 2 July 2011

LAKE TITICACA

THURSDAY 30th JUNE

  I was up for breakfast at 8.30am and all ready and waiting to be picked up by 9.00am.  By 3 minutes past 9.00am the receptionist noticed that I was getting restless.  I explained the situation, and she asked me for the piece of paper Eva had given me with her phone number on it.  She phoned and got a reply saying they would be here in 2 minutes, and so they were, my faith in Eva was rewarded!

  There was a group of about a dozen of us, three Yanks around my age, three French in their thirties, a Colombian couple and 3/4 English youngsters.  We boarded our boat escorted by our happy guide Franz.  It was he told us the German version of Francis, the Spanish Francisco but was also known as Pablo.  Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world at 3811 metres or 12,500ft above sea level. The name is translated as Rock Puma from the Aymoua and Quechuan languages.

  Our boat proceeded down channels between bits of floating islands on which pigs and other animals grazed.  These floating islands have been inhabited for some 500 years.  They are made up of peat and reeds and are anchored by ropes to the lake bed.  There are no vehicles on these islands and all agriculture is done by hand.  There are 44 islands called the Uros and another 20 called the Amanatani which are populated by the Quechua people.  There was apparently just one large island, but an earthquake decided to divide it up into 64!
We eventually arrived at the island we wee due to visit and given the traditional welcome to which we replied with "Wachike" or something similar.  Our guide Franz then showed us where we were and introduced the locals.  He then explained that the colours on the bobbles at the end of the pigtails denoted the marital status of the women.  If they were black it meant they were married, if they were colourful it meant "come and get me I'm single", as per the young lass below.
As can be seen the whole floor is made up of dried reeds and is very soft to walk on.  The houses are all built from the dried reeds.  The white stem part is used as food and is as nutritional as bananas - we all tried some!  We were invited to look inside their homes, and very cozy they were too, with lighting provided by solar panels.
Each island has its own look out post to see what's going on afar.
Weddings are held in boats at sea (or more accurately "at lake"), not that this was one.  We did however go out on the islands big ceremonial boat built entirely from reeds and rowed by two of the islanders.  I guess this bateau would definitely take part in wedding festivities.
The women then put on a display of how they barter goods with women from other islands.  It was very amusing and at times quite animated.  Apart from money made from the tourists which they save up, the bulk of their trading is based on the barter system.
We then had a competition to find out how deep the water was where this island is located.  As mentioned earlier they are anchored to lake bed by ropes.  I guessed 15 metres and won!  My prize was a necklace with a boat placed over my neck my the young lady in the bright blue skirt, as well as a kiss!
We then set off given a singing farewell by the ladies who sang in their native tongue as well as a song in English and French.
And the little one was picking up the ropes, clapping away with gusto!
It was a very interesting and enlightening trip that I'm glad I didn't miss.  It is amazing to think that these people live within a few miles od a hustling and bustling 21st century town, yet elect to live in the quiet and solitude of their floating islands, disparaging most of the modern technology that people take for granted in the rest of the world.

We all then got a lift back to our hotels, and I discovered that the Punuypampa Inn where I was staying was just around the corner from, yes you've guessed it, the Plaza de Armas!
After a brief rest I was again picked up to go to Sillustani, some 35 drive outside of Puno.  On the way out we stopped for a photo opportunity as we rose above the town of Puno.
We then drove on to the Sillustani tombs, this is an ancient burial gtound that pre-dates the Incas on the shores of Lake Umayo.  There was quite a walk uphill to the entrance from the car park, and that was enough for me.  When I saw the further climbs involved in visting the site and decided to stay put.  I bought a bottle of water and took photos from a bit further afar.
On the way back we drove into a typical Peruvian farm, where Franz showed us the products they grew there. 
There are around 4700 varieties of potatoes world wide, but they all derive from the seven species that emmanated from Peru/Bolivia.  The were taken to North America by the Spanish and from there made their way to Europe, initially Ireland, Britain and then the rest of Europe.  So that's where your Spud comes from Paddy.  There were the various kinds of corn and we sampled some freshly cooked bread, as well as home made cheese.  There was also a variety of wildstock roaming the enclosures including pigs, alpaca, llamas, and guinea pigs (not as pets but as a supreme national delicacy).

Then it was back to the hotel and an early night prior to the morning departure for La Paz

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