EXPLORING DURBAN

TUESDAY 16th NOVEMBER

  The rates at the Belaire include breakfast in the price.  Having been awakened by the maid at 7.30am asking what time she could do my room (this was repeated again today - I think I will have to put a "Do Not Disturb" notice on my door), I eventually got up and went down for breakfast in company with Nasser Hussain's "Playing With Fire", and had a plunger coffee along with a full fried breakfast.  I returned to my room, put on a short sleeved shirt and retained my shorts prior to setting off on my first exploratory steps in Durban.  I went into the bathroom to relieve myself and as I was standing there I could not help but notice my keys on the window sill!
Ah well, I do still have my front door key with me - will I still have it next July?

  I took a stroll along the beach, but didn't venture into the water.  I had consulted my "Rough Guide to South Arica" and headed in the direction of the town centre. I almost immediately came across a small parade of shops that included a hardware shop that not only stocked Super Glue, but also sold small padlocks for suitcases.  Job done! Trying to get across the railway lines sent me in the direction of the new football stadium that I had to pass by to get to the shopping centre I had espied on the map.

We had passed the stadium in the cab the previous day, but here I saw it from another angle.  As I was approaching it a black guy asked me if I knew where Umgeni Road was, I replied that I was from London and this was my first time in Durban.  He laughed and walked on.  However the more I thought about the more I was convinced that this was the name I was headed for, and I called him back, and told him where I thought the road was - in the event I was proved correct.  However my interpretation of a shopping centre (I was think shopping mall), proved to be totally at odds with reality.  Yes the road was full of shops, anything from beds, to car wheels, to clothes, to carpets, mobile phones, but not a book shop, CD shop, cafe or restaurant in sight.  It was also full of stalls selling ethnic products.  It went on and on for some time, and although I was gasping for a drink, I only saw one bar that looked pretty rough with weird music coming out it and a few black guys bopping around inside.  I gave it a swerve!

  I then started heading for home, which took me past the Kingmead cricket ground.  It had notices to the effect that tickets for Saturday's 20/20 match were sold out - oh well I'll just have to watch it on the telly if it doesn't clash with the Arsenal v Spurs game!

  I have noticed that the robots - as traffic lights are known over here - are as vicious in Durban as they were in Cape Town.  There are buttons to press for crossing the road, but they seem to take an inordinate time to come on, and they show a green figure effectively sprinting.  Unless you follow suit you stand little chance of getting more than halfway across the road before they turn red.  I've noticed that most of the locals cross the roads at high speed, ignoring the little green men, but just wait for a break in the traffic.  I am a little more prudent, but also have taken to crossing the road at speed. 

  Just before reaching the waterfront I came across a Spar supermarket.  They had a large display of wines but seemingly no beer.  As I have a fridge in my room, and at the time I was under the misapprehension that the hotel didn't sell beer, I thought I might stock up.  I inquired as to where the beer was and was told they didn't sell it.  So there was little else to do but buy a bottle of Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc and a large bottle of Mango & Banana juice.  They asked me if I was an old aged pensioner, to which I readily admitted, but confessed that I wasn't one in South Africa.  That apparently didn't matter, and they insisted on giving me a 5% discount! I return to the hotel a slightly richer man.  My perambulations had taken nigh on three hours, so I took a leaf out of Alan's book when I got back, and had an afternoon snooze!  There was plenty of sport to see me through until dinner, when I managed to grab a white waiter who not only understood by pronunctiation of "beer" but also proffered me a dinner menu I had not seen before.  I chose a fillet steak, which came on a bed of potatoes and consisted of two excellent fillet steaks along with some diced vegetables, all for just under £6.00.  I returned to my room in time to see Munster beat the Australian rugby team, in conditions that looked quite appalling.  The rain was belting down and the gale was howling, but I guess that's Limerick for you!